Gas Oven Won’t Preheat: Igniter Amp Draw (The Tech Way)
A dull orange igniter that never releases gas is one of the most misunderstood oven failures. Amps—not just “does it glow”—decide the repair.
On most residential gas ranges (Whirlpool, GE, Samsung, LG), the hot-surface igniter must pull enough current through the gas valve’s bimetal/solenoid circuit before gas flows. A weak igniter can glow for minutes and never open the valve. Replacing “because it looks old” without measuring is how people buy the wrong part twice.
Safety first
- If you smell gas, shut the supply, ventilate, and call a pro—do not troubleshoot.
- Otherwise: kill power, pull the oven racks, remove the bake burner shield to see the igniter.
The amp test techs use
- Clamp a AC amp meter around one igniter lead (or use a series meter if you know what you are doing).
- Restore power and call for bake.
- Note current once the igniter is fully glowing.
Rule of thumb for many round Norton-style igniters: valve opens around ~2.5–3.5 A depending on valve design. Flat igniters often need ~3.2–3.6 A. If you read ~2.0 A or less and no gas, replace the igniter even though it still lights up. Service sheets beat rules of thumb—match your model.
If amps are healthy but still no flame
Suspect the safety gas valve, loose harness, or control never sending voltage. Valve swaps involve gas fittings—if you are not comfortable leak-testing with solution after, stop. We handle gas oven repair and leak checks across Chicago.
Electric ovens are different
No glow / no heat on electric = bake element continuity (often 10–40 Ω) and thermal fuse / cutout on the rear. Do not apply the igniter amp method to calrod elements.
Need a same-day bake before dinner guests arrive? Call (630) 306-1483.
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