How to Test a Dryer Heating Element With a Multimeter
Dryer tumbles but clothes stay cold? If you own a multimeter and are comfortable with a screwdriver, you can confirm a dead heating element in about 20 minutes—before you order parts.
Electric dryers that run without heat often have an open heating element or a blown thermal fuse. Both are cheap to diagnose if you can read continuity. Unplug the dryer first. Gas dryers are a different animal—do not open gas valves or test igniters with a DIY guide meant for electric coils.
Tools you need
- Phillips / nut driver set
- Digital multimeter set to continuity or resistance (Ω)
- Phone camera to photo wire positions before you pull them
Access the element
Most rear-vent electric dryers: pull the machine out, remove the back panel, and find the coiled heating element housing near the blower. Front-service models may need the front panel and drum belt off—if that is beyond your comfort level, stop and book dryer repair.
Continuity test
- Disconnect both wires from the element terminals (photo first).
- Probe the two element terminals. A healthy coil usually reads roughly 8–12 Ω (check your model’s service sheet; some run 5–20 Ω).
- OL / infinite = open element → replace the element (or the whole heater assembly on some brands).
- Also probe each terminal to the metal case. Any continuity to ground means the coil is shorted to the housing—replace it; do not keep running it.
Do not skip the thermal fuse
If the element tests good, check the thermal fuse on the blower housing the same way: it should show near 0 Ω. Open fuse = no heat (and often a clogged vent caused it). Clear the vent before you replace the fuse or the new one will blow again.
When to call us
No continuity tools, sealed front-load cabinets, or a dryer that trips the breaker when heat kicks in? That is board / relay / short territory. Call (630) 306-1483—we stock common Whirlpool, GE, Samsung, and LG heater parts for Chicago same-day jobs.
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